Its fine it i switch it on after its been in use and was just turned off or else if restarted but when i switch it on after its been off for a couple of hours i hear the hard disk start up etc.. but no Chime and it doesnt boot and the screen remains off.
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2011, May 21 - 7:19am
#1
LC III takes really long to initialize when switched on
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2011, May 21 - 8:38am
#2
Mine has been acting the exact opposite recently. I have to wait hours before turning it back on, otherwise I won't get the Chime and it won't boot.
I think for you it has to do with the clock battery. Do you have a working one in there?
2011, May 21 - 11:07am
#3
The clock battery is present but when turned off the mac looses the settings of the date and clock so i guess the battery needs replacing.
2011, May 21 - 11:32am
#4
Yes. If your Mac loses the date and time between boots, then you need to replace the clock battery. On an LCIII, this is a "half double A lithium 3.6 volt" battery. You must "shop around" for a good price on this one... GIYF in this case.
2011, May 21 - 5:25pm
#5
So is that the reason why it seems to need warming up before booting?
2011, May 21 - 5:49pm
#6
Most likely, yes. Some Macs do not cold boot at all with a bad battery.
Is your system time set to something like year 1904?
The little Li cells are getting more and more expensive.
Maybe we should think about a rechargeable replacement, if there is enough room.
Could a 4.5V accu pack do any harm? Some Macs had 4.5V alkaline P-RAM batteries.
2011, May 21 - 6:40pm
#7
My LC III ran with no battery at all. If it's not the battery then it could be leaking capacitors. It's a common issue with old Macs. The "quick fix" is to wash/soak the board with isopropyl alcohol or distilled water. This clears up the residue from the capacitors. It got my Classic II booting again (it was stuck with vertical striped onscreen) but eventually you'll need to replace the leaking caps.
2011, May 21 - 7:38pm
#8
Yes, luckily the trigger voltage for the psu is not taken from the battery at the LC_III.
In the cleaning case I would vote for isopropanol because it dries faster, cleans better and will not short circuit anything, diluting the dirt.
Did you already re-cap a logic board, Protocol_7?
2011, May 21 - 8:04pm
#9
No, I keep putting it off...
But sooner or later I will re-cap the Classic II. I've hardly ever done any soldering, so I'd have to buy the gear first as well as the replacement caps. In time I'll probably have to do it with the rest of my Macs so it's better to learn how to do it.
2011, May 23 - 7:53am
#10
I didn't know the macs suffered from caps too. Seems a lot of early to mid 90s computers suffer from caps. I had to replace the caps in 2 sega game gears, one had no display and low sound and the other no sound. Amiga 1200s and 600s suffer slightly too from faulty caps.
2013, July 28 - 11:14pm
#11
Any electrolytic capacitor will decay with time, they will need replaced about every 20 years usually (if you get good Caps to start with). This is just due to the Capacitors latterly drying out. As such it is not a problem with a specific machine or range of machines, it just reflects there age. Though I have noticed that some can last 30+ years, though those tend to be in machines that do not produce much heat at all.